A Victory for Bijay

Bijay is only in his early-40s, but has the experience and confidence like that of a veteran. A highly successful businessman in a very unique product line, he has been the inspiration to many copycat entrepreneurs. The leadership qualities that he has honed to sharpness in business have visibly overflown to community work at Janabahaa.

Bijay takes bold initiatives, coming up with new ideas. And then he shows others the way by getting his hands dirty, literally speaking. Results are inevitable – and it is only a matter of time before others pitch in to support Bijay’s ventures.

Together with the preservation and promotion of Janabahaa, Bijay is especially concerned about its physical cleanliness. He has led a team of fellow compatriots from Janabahaa to publish a wall calendar on the occasion of Nepal Era 1130 New Year celebrations last fall. The funds saved from that project are being used primarily to hire a full-time staff member who oversees the cleanliness and general orderliness of Janabahaa.

In the last two months since the “cleanliness supervisor” has been deputed to Janabahaa, its overall neatness has improved drastically. Thanks to his able leadership and foresight, Bijay has now achieved victory in his war against filth in Janabahaa.

Bijay has an avid interest in history, and is a collector of historical coins. He grew up in the Janabahaa courtyard, but currently lives in the south-western part of town. Bijay is the owner and chief executive of Ratnapark Paun Bhandar, a confectionery that produces sweet, hot and sour candy from the “lapsi” or “aamali” fruit that is indigenous to the hills surrounding Kathmandu valley. The candy is hugely popular, especially among the younger generation, for its mouthwatering, savory, exotic taste.

Photos by Alok Tuladhar.

A Day in the Life of a Caretaker Priest

Prakash Shakya feels privileged to take his turn as the caretaker priest this month at the Buddhist temple of Karunamaya (Janabahaa Dyo or Aryavalokiteshwor), also worshipped as White Machhindranath by Hindus. As part of his duty, he has to perform several rituals daily and follow strict rules to stay pure.

 The cult of Karunamaya is an ancient one. Karunamaya is revered by Buddhists across the world as "the compassionate one."

 

The Janabahaa courtyard, located in the heart of the city, is among the most important Buddhist sites in Kathmandu, and dates back to 4th Century BC. The central Karunamaya temple was added in 16th century AD. The complex today continues to be the hotspot of traditional Newaa culture, architecture and music, as well as the central location where religious activites of the Vajrayana sect of Buddhism are practiced.

 Devotees gather at the shrine as early as 4 am to pray to the deity before they start their day.

 

 Before entering the temple in the morning, which takes place at around 5 am, he needs to take a bath, in the open.

 He has to cook his own food. The diet is strictly vegetarian, but onion and garlic is not allowed. Only one meal a day is allowed -- lunch. Milk and fruits can be taken in the evening if desired.

 

Some of the rice he cooks is first offered to the deity, and then to the birds, before he can eat.

 Feeding rice to the birds before his own meal.

 

Newspapers are the only resource for him to keep in touch with the outside world.

Devotees and family are allowed to enter the outer chamber of the temple, but only the caretaker priest can enter the inner sanctuary.

 The ritual of circling the temple, while ringing the bell, is undertaken four times a day.

Mother and sister ensure all impure objects, such as shoes, are out of the way before the encircling ritual, and make sure that nobody touches him. If he does touch anyone accidentally, he needs to purify himself before he can enter the temple again.

 The encircling ritual is followed by reciting of special prayers while fanning the deity with a yak's tale attached to a silver handle. This special implement is called "chwamo" in the Newaa language.

 

Devotees of Karunamaya commonly offer butter lamps to the deity.

 

Another member of the priest clan recites the "Namsangati" prayer every evening.

Photos by Alok Tuladhar.

Faces VI (Among the Five Thousand)

A brief, informal survey was conducted a few days ago to try and estimate the number of people who visit Janabahaa every day. Exactly 137 people entered Janabahaa between 4:45 pm and 5:15 pm from the main gate, and 24 people entered from the back gate in the western side. Assuming this traffic to be the average flow of people passing through Janabahaa from 5 am to 9 pm, we arrive at over five thousand people per day! That too on a day when no festivals or special ceremonies occur. That is a lot of visitors for a single location.

 

 

 Photos by Alok Tuladhar.

Karmabhumi

She is being trained for her future occupation.

And so is he.

Enough training for today... time for a milk break, straight from mom.

Photos by Alok Tuladhar.

Before the Big Bath... and After

Here are some glimpses of the environment in Janabahaa in the evening of Janabahaa Dyo's annual bathing ritual.

The stage is set (meaning, it is cleaned thoroughly to try and rid it of the pigeon droppings as much as possible).

The people start gathering from late afternoon onwards.

 

Representation of the older devotees is understandably  large.

A large religious crowd means a large marketplace for religious books and pictures.

It is either the old or the very young who show up. The youth, sadly, do not seem too interested.

The seven-headed serpent or "Nagaraja" protects Janabahaa Dyo.

All the "seats" are soon gone.

Only standing space is available now.

The biting mid-winter chill does not seem to deter the devotees.

 

The headgear worn by the officiating priest during the bathing ceremony.

The crown represents Janabahaa Dyo while  the idol is removed from its sanctuary.

Devotees vie for drops of the holy liquid (water from Bishnumati River, milk, ghee and honey) from which the idol of Janabahaa Dyo was given a bath.

A popular and highly knowledgeable priest of Vajrayana Buddhism talks to Avenues Television after the ceremony.

Photos by Alok Tuladhar.

Philosophy vs. Ritual

What was the original significance behind the elaborate annual bathing ceremony of Janabahaa Dyo and the accompanying fanfare? It is hard to imagine that this display of pomp and pageantry was initiated solely to please the crowds. There must have been a deeper meaning to this ritual, as there is for every little action and icon in Vajrayana Buddhism practiced in Nepal.

But that meaning is now virtually lost. Perhaps a handful of individuals who possess that knowledge are still around, but those who are knowledgeable are perpetually stuck in enacting the rituals or watching them silently, without realizing the importance of dwelling on the philosophy behind the rites.

The bathing ritual of Janabahaa Dyo or "Nhawan" is probably its second most important annual event, after the chariot festival. It is conducted in the evening of the eight day of the waxing moon of the month of Poush (Poush Shukla Ashtami), which fell coincidentally on Christmas this year.

What happens is this: the official caretaker or "Dyo Pala" priests fetch water in seven containers from the holy Bishnumati River at Shova Bhagwati the evening before. The fact that Bishnumati is probably one of the most polluted rivers in the world now is totally ignored -- in honor of tradition. The idol of Janabahaa Dyo is removed from its sanctuary on the afternoon of the auspicious day and placed elsewhere to prepare it for the bath. It is carried unceremoniously by one of the priests in his shoulders to the dais in the south-east corner of Janabahaa, covered with ornate fabric. After half an hour of extravagant tantric ceremonies, the idol is disrobed of its dozen or so layers of clothing. Finally, several containers of the "holy" Bishnumati water, milk, ghee and honey are poured over the idol.

Drops of the thick liquid that accumulate on the pedestal on which the idol is placed are sprinkled to eagerly awaiting devotees, as the holy liquid or "jal" is supposed to have magical healing powers. The idol is then covered with decorative material and carried back to the temple.

Thousands of devotees gather to watch the ritual bath, many singing hymns in praise of Janabahaa Dyo. The most important spectator is probably the living goddess Kumari, for whom attending this event is one of the few occasions where she gets to come out of her temple-residence in Durbar Square.

Photos by Alok Tuladhar.